Saturday, September 30, 2023

Heads - masked, transformed


Yesterday night, Red Baron was invited to a vernissage at Freiburg's Museum für Neue Kunst. The art collection of a couple from Berlin had been arranged for an exhibition.


Anna and Michael Haas, who had grown up in the Black Forest, had returned to their roots. The couple specializes in collecting "heads."

The waiting crowd was enormous.
As I read in the flyer, "The human countenance: it reflects personality, reveals emotions and states of mind - occasionally it also imparts things that one would rather hide ... The exhibition presents over ninety works belonging to the Haas collection that ranges in its chronological sweep from the fourteenth century to the present day. The artworks have one thing in common: they bear witness to their time, and yet they are timeless - making them both topical and emotionally compelling."

Red Baron waiting through the speeches (©GK)
After the usual speeches, Red Baron entered the exhibition somewhat indifferently but was immediately absorbed by a Métamatics, i.e., a kinetic art installation of the outstanding Jean Tinguely.


After having seen the first portraits, I became overwhelmed. The museum management had arranged the art objects in groups. Still, I shall present 17 paintings chronologically so that you may follow the development of styles and techniques over the centuries. Here we go:

Jacob of Utrecht, Christ on the cross around 1500
Zaccaria Zacchi, Head of a Young Woman 1510
Rotger Lembke, Singing Man around 1631
Grazio Marinell, Two psychological studies Joy and Despair around 1700
Pierre Alexandre Wille, Burlesque: A theatrical union of character heads 1803
Frederic Bezillo, Young woman with lowered eyes 1808
Henri Fantin-Latour, Self-portrait 1885
Paula Modersohn-Becker, Self-portrait around 1903
George Rouault, Clown tragique 1911
Giorgio de Chirico, Autoritratto 1923
Otto Dix, Bawd 1923
Adolf Erbaloeh, Portrait of Anna Hirzel-Langenhan
Elfriede Lohse-Waechter, The Absinthe Drinker, Self Portrait 1931
Ludwig Meidner Self-portrait 1936
Francis Picabla, Trois Mimes around 1936
Loula Soutter, Portrait d'homme moustachu around 1940
Eva Aeppli, Without title 1960
What a collection and what an exhibition. Unfortunately, the presentation seems limited to Freiburg's Museum für Neue Kunst. 

 The Guide Michelin attributes three stars to restaurants where dining is worth a trip. Attention all art lovers from all over Germany! Red Baron gives Heads - masked, transformed three stars. Come to Freiburg, visit the exhibition, and as a bonus, you may enjoy Baden cuisine and wine.
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Sunday, September 24, 2023

The Wallraf

On my way to Hövelhof, I stopped at Cologne to visit my sister-in-law. Following my overwhelming impression of the paintings at the Hamburger Kunsthalle, I wanted to look at The Wallraf, particularly at works by Käthe Kollwitz.
 
Wallraf is the short form of the Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, Cologne's art collection.

The museum claimed that one of the most famous German artists of the 20th century was its guest: Königsberg-born Käthe Kollwitz (1867-1945) is revered above all for her impressive graphic oeuvre. 

Self-portrait: The Master at his easel
Young Käthe's idols and patrons were two Maxs, Klinger and Liebermann. These artists were influential in her early career.

The empty and the ...
... and the frequented Munich beer garden (1888/89).
The Wallraf showed two little-known oil studies that the young Kollwitz created during her studies in Munich. 

Max Liebermann: Joodse Steeg (Jews'Alley) in Amsterdam, 1905
Käthe's oil paintings are presented in direct proximity to a painting by Liebermann and clearly reflect the influence of the German impressionist.

Max Klinger: Bathing Women, 1912 (©Wikipedia)
In an adjacent room, a Kollwitz etching created in the context of the legendary Weber Zyklus is juxtaposed with works by symbolist Max Klinger (1857-1920), another great role model for Käthe.

"From many wounds, you bleed, o people"
was supposed to become the final leaf of Käthe Kollwitz's cycle "A Weavers' Revolt."
The above etching called Red Baron's particular attention. A copy hung on the wall at my father-in-law's apartment that the family called Ecce homo. Here at The Wallraf, I learned its true origin.

Also, at The Wallraf: The Dying child
In February 1893, Käthe Kollwitz witnessed the premiere of Gerhart Hauptmann's naturalistic drama "The Weavers" at the New Theater Berlin (today's Theater am Schiffbauerdamm). The theater play deals with the Selisian weavers' misery, starvation, and uprising. The emotion of the spectators quickly made "The Weavers" one of the most discussed naturalistic works in Germany. In the same year, Käthe Kollwitz began work on her cycle "A Weavers' Revolt."

Two other paintings at The Wallraf drew my attention:


In 1822, Heinrich Christoph Kolbe painted Johann Wolfgang von Goethe at the age of 73. The Olympian looks with the gaze of an aged wise man, for he had definitely ticked off his Marienbad Elegy.


The Bavarian Franz von Lenbach painted the Prussian Otto Fürst Bismarck in 1888, two years before his resignation as Chancellor of the Second Reich in 1890. Bismarck is 75 by then, but he looks older.
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Saturday, September 23, 2023

150 Years Breisgau-Geschichtsverein Schau-ins-Land

It's a long time since you didn't read a new blog. I was simply busy, so:

When people ask,
"Is Red Baron still alive?"
You should tell them, 
"Yes, he's still alive."
He was busy writing websites 
About a reception for AYF students and his annual class reunion alike,
And finally, he traveled on the Road of Democracy.

This text is a verbalization of the popular Hecker Song, which we, a group of members of the Museumsgesellschaft, sang on the occasion of the 175th anniversary of the Baden Revolution while on an excursion to honor its beginning on September 12, 1847, at Offenburg, and its end on July 23, 1849, at Rastatt:

Wenn die Leute fragen,
„Lebt der Hecker noch?“
So sollt ihr ihnen sagen,
„Ja, er lebet noch.”
Er hängt an keinem Baume,
er hängt an keinem Strick,
er hängt an seinem Traume
einer freien Republik …


Friedrich Hecker is the mythical figurehead of the Baden Revolution. After its failure, he fled to the US and lived on a farm in Illinois.


Let's continue with history. Last night, Red Baron was invited to a festive event celebrating the 150th anniversary of the Breisgau-Geschichtsverein Schau-ins-Land.

I will not go into the association's history here because it is described in a Wikipedia article I once initiated, and to which I contributed 65% of the text.


For the 150th anniversary, the Geschichtsverein offers a firework of events, especially excursions. Vice President Renate Liessem-Breinlinger presented the already completed program in a slide show. Red Baron participated only in the visit to the district Waldsee.


In his speech, the chairman of the historical society, Dr. Andreas Jobst, reviewed the work of the Geschichtsverein. He also addressed the general problem of dwindling membership, which affects all societies.

Red Baron took photos of the screen using my Phone's 5x optical zoom.
 The strange coloration is due to the projector's light.
Dr. Jobst underlined his positive outlook for the future with the new modern logo.


The doyen of the early Freiburg and Zähringer history, Prof. Thomas Zotz, held the ceremonial lecture with the title: 
"For our own pleasure
To teach the people, 
To honor our homeland!" 
Foundation and first decades of the Breisgau-Verein Schau-ins-Land.

The original motto of the historical society still gives food for thought today. 

Zu eigner Lust: Yes, I enjoy dealing with Freiburg's history. Since 2002, I have been working on the Freiburgs Geschichte in Zitaten website, adding to it whenever I learn something new. 

Fritz Geiges for the 9th year of the Schau-ins Land! foundation
Dem Volk zur Lehr: My richly illustrated website could convey knowledge of Freiburg's history in a light form. In times when right-wing radical ideas are celebrated happily, and democracies get more and more in distress, a reminder of past times would be so necessary. Remember a Russian proverb, "If you forget the war, then a new war arises."
    
Democracies, which people in Germany fought for 175 years ago, have their drawbacks but are still the best form of government. 

1896: Vignette by Fritz Geiges in the Schau-ins-Land
Der Heimat zur Ehr!: Certainly, our German history has often not been to our credit. Therefore, looking for positive moments in the past is not forbidden.


Unsurprisingly, Prof. Zotz's last slide showed the great Freiburg influencer Fritz Geiges.


The festive event was followed by a reception, where mostly old white-haired men did justice to the anniversary wine from the Weinbaugemeinde* (wine-growing community) Ebringen.
*Recently, Baden-Württemberg's State Government attributed the title to the community


When I left the building, it was dark. Facing the south side of Freiburg's Minster Church, I tested the wide-angle lens on my iPhone. What a spectacular sight!
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Tuesday, September 5, 2023

Hövelhof Revisited


The train I just left at Hövelhof Station is heading to Paderborn.
When I arrived with the local train at Hövelhof Station one hour late, my first worry was to miss Karl Epping's successor on a Friday afternoon.


I looked on the Internet and discovered that Karl Epping's meat factory had disappeared. Still, at the same site, Epping Green Energy was now located, i.e., from pork to photovoltaics or sausages to solar modules.

Click to enlarge (©Google Maps)
Hövelhof center. On the upper right, the train station and my Hotel Viktoria. On Parkallee; "Epping Green Energy." Behind is the site of the former meat factory, now transformed into a public square called Hövelmarkt.

I rushed to the address and rang the bell. The door opened, and I looked up to a man standing 6 feet 8 inches. "You must be the grandson," I murmured. 

Markus Epping, CEO of Epping Green Energy, invited me in and offered me a coffee. 

©Epping Green Energy
Markus wants to make his Senne community CO2-neutral by relying on solar energy. Lately, he generously donated Hövelhof two e-bike charging stations for free use.

And then, I mostly talked about my childhood stay at the housing complex his grandfather Karl had built outside Hövelhof, now called Eppinghof. I told Markus I had spent one night with my mother and brother at his grandparents' house. On short notice, the British occupiers had ordered all people to leave their homes at Eppinghof to make room for Jewish women. They didn't come, so we could all return to our lodgings the following day.

The local church was the next stop on my visit to Hövelhof, but Markus warned me not to be disappointed. The complex was completely rebuilt in 1979 except for the two steeples.


I stood in front of St. Johannes Nepomuk, corner of Parkallee/Schlossstraße, where I saw the main entrance walled up.

New St Nepomuk's vast interior is in bungalow style, looking at the former main entrance.
So, I entered the church from the main entrance in the back.

Red Baron likes to light candles.

St. Nepomuk halfway up the wall, contemplating the cross. Why does Hövelhof honor a bridge saint without a significant stretch of running water? Read Nepomuk's legend here.

Click to enlarge (©Google Maps)
Then I walked down Schlossstraße. On my right is the town hall that was built where the village school used to be. Here, I turned left and took the long walk down Kirchstraße toward Eppinghof, located in the upper left corner of the map. 

Did I remember this prayer station on my way to school?
Note the many houses in the area that did not exist in 1944. At that time, Hövelhof had less than 5000 inhabitants. Now, the number is close to 16,000. The Eppinghof, where we lived at number 23, is still way out.

In 1945, only the houses on the outside of the street called Eppinghof
 - the odd numbers - were built. Click to enlarge (©Google Maps)
The "official" entry to Eppinhof is on the upper right via Gütersloher Straße. 


To the right is Bredenmeiers Kapelle, which we children avoided because it smelled damp and musty. Red Baron remembers that once in the year, the chapel is the destination of the Hövelhof Ascension procession. 

Red Baron learned, "The small chapel halfway to the Hövelhof church.was built in 1896 by the then-farm owner on the 'Kirchweg' to the Vollmeierhof* Bredemeier "
*A Meierhof or Meyerhof (from Latin: maiores villae) was a farm or building occupied by a noble or ecclesiastical estate administrator (the Meier).


"Inside the chapel is a copy of a Madonna from 1725 on loan from the farm owner; the original is still in the family today."


Turning around the corner, I saw the first Eppinghof house built. It is still in its original state. There, where the trailer is parked, we children were playing in the sand when a low-flying plane approached over the gable of the house and strafed us.


House 23, where we lived, was transformed into a bungalow. However, the two windows on the first floor and the entrance door are still in their original positions. 

I knocked at the door. A man opened it, listened to my story, and shut it again, quite unfriendly. 

Anyway, the second floor where my family lived was gone, so I was looking for other houses that were still in their original state.


Down the street, I found what I was looking for. Forget about the solar panels (Epping Green Energy?) and the skylights. The window on the house's gable is that of our kitchen/living room. Most impressively, on the outer wall of the gable wall, you can still see the square where the small window for venting the only mutual toilet used to be.

Being back in the village, I needed a rest. I had a pot of coffee and an enormous piece of cherry pie at Bäckerei Schuhmacher, located at the bifurcation of Gütersloher and Bielefelder Straße. 

©ludger 1961/Wikipedia
The green space opposite St. Nepomuk is flanked by the former unpretentious prince-bishop's hunting lodge, which now serves as the parsonage.


The Mahn- und Gedenkstätte für die Opfer von Krieg und Gewaltherrschaft (Memorial for the victims of war and tyranny) dominates the center of the site.


Here, as an example of the steles surrounding the memorial, the stele marked 1944 is shown when little Manfred came to Hövelhof.


A recent Hövelhof attraction is Hermann der Kantige (Hermann the Edgy). Red Baron blogged the story of Hermann the Cheruscan, also known as Arminius, and the Edgy is just a reminiscence of the original memorial near Detmold about which I blogged. 

I read, "A scaled-down copy of the Hermann Memorial was scanned. On this basis, a digital surface model was created. The then cut-out metal surfaces were welded together and then painted."


In the evening, Red Baron went to Hövelmarkt and had dinner at the Einstein. This central square is an attraction of the village.


With asparagus season over, I had the Sauce Hollandaise on a schnitzel (a specialty?) with Bratkartoffeln, as my mother used to make them with roasted onions and finely chopped bacon. Needless to say, I could not conquer the mass of getting used to schnitzel, but I ate all the fried potatoes.
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