Tuesday, July 14, 2026

Nancy

On the second day of the Museumsreise 2026, our group explored Nancy, Lorraine's capital.
  

The first stop was the Musée d'École in the Villa Majorelle. Its interior was crammed with Art Nouveau furniture, paintings, and other objects.

Portrait de M. et Mme Corbin by Victor Prouvé painted in 1906
This eyecatcher is an example of the Nancy School. The painting depicts the wealthy class, with a newspaper-reading husband and Madame striking a pose. The background is filled with decorative glass art, an Art Nüoveau rose window. 

An Art Nouveau vestibule
Marcel Corrette: Le goûter sur la terrasse 1938
And here are Mr. and Mrs. Corbin again, shortly before World War II, having a snack on the terrace.


Rich people lived in style and sat on a canapé whose back was decorated with a hard-working Lorraine miner.

Victor Prouvé: Portrait des Demoiselles Moulins, 1903
And again, Victor Prouvé: He painted the granddaughters of the orchestra director at the Nancy Opera, all of whom, of course, play the piano.


Then we went up a flight of stairs to the first floor, where we met ...
 

... a cluttered bedroom ...


... a bathing paradise (?) ...


... and a contemporary stained-glass window.


It was hot, and those saturated with Art Nouveau gathered in the shade in front of the museum before the scheduled departure time. Our bus took us next downtown to Square Stanislas.
 

We had to walk a few meters and passed the Prefecture of the Department of Meurthe-et-Moselle.


And there it was in all its splendor, Square Stanislas. For its history, you may wish to consult the information (in German) that Professor Asch sent to the participants as an email attachment before the excursion.

To Stanislas, the Benefactor, from a Grateful Lorraine, 1831
In the background, the rather grand city hall.


The corners of the square are richly decorated with golden arches and fountains.


In the distance, a slender, pointed, tall church tower could be seen. I left Square Stanislas, walking down along a street lined with magnificent buildings and through a triumphal arch, heading in the direction.

Saint Épvre (©Krzysztof Golik/Wikipedia)
Suddenly, I found myself standing in front of a Neo-Gothic church. Built in the 19th century, the cathedral is dedicated to Saint Épvre and is a landmark of Nancy.

Épvre comes from the Latin aper, which literally means "boar." Saint Épvre was a bishop of Toul in the 5th century. He is regarded as a particularly compassionate pastor and is said to have been especially dedicated to helping the poor and the sick.

Unusual depiction of the Holy Trinity in the Typanon of St. Épvre

After lunch, the Museum of Fine Arts, located on Square Stanislas, was the penultimate stop on our excursion. I took many photos, and while looking through them, I realized that I could use them to illustrate the story of salvation. Here we go:

Frans II Pourbus (1569-1622): Annonciation, 1619
Anonyme flamand XVIe siècle: Adoration des bergers
Gerard Seghers (1591-1651): Le Christ après la Flagellation, 1525.
With the pillar of scourging in the background, Jesus bends down to pick up his clothes.

Giampietrino (1508-1549): Christ au roseau
As King of the Jews, Jesus wears a crown of thorns and a reed. Is he contemplating a second Gethsemane: "Father, must this be?"

Scene of crucifixion in St. Épvre
Wilhelm Stetter (1487-1552): Apparition du Christ à Marie-Madeleine, 1523
The risen, triumphant Christ.

Luca Giordano (1634-1705): Conversion de Saint Paul, 1685
The spread of Christianity began with Saul's conversion near Damascus.

Here are some other painting highlights.

Paolo Girolamo Piola (1666-1724): Susanne et les veillards, 1700.
Lecherous old men are much older than in the Old Testament, but here, two of them try to seduce Susanna in the bath

Georges de La Tour (1593-1652): La femme à la puce, 1638
Here, you are possibly wrong. The girl isn't unbuttoning her bodice; she's crushing a flea between her thumbnails.

Lorraine clearly is the "missing link" between Charles' territories in Flanders and Burgundy.
Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, was nicknamed "The Turk of the East" because of his drive for territorial expansion. In his quest, Charles fought three decisive battles (Read more in German).

On March 2, 1476, at the Battle of Grandson against the Swiss Confederates, he lost his (Hut) hat.

On June 22 of the same year, at Morat against the allied Swiss, Lorraine, and Further Austrian troops, he lost his (Gut) estate.

The following year, the duke, in a final desperate effort, staked everything on a single gamble. On January 5, 1477, in the Battle of Nancy against the allied forces, he lost his (Blut) blood and with it all his possessions.

Auguste Feyen-Perrin (1826-1888): Charles le Téméraire, 1865
The duke was found naked on the battlefield. Why hadn't the looters also taken the ring from him - the one that a servant is holding out to the approaching victors as a sign of identification?

The church rises majestically above the village
Our last stop was the basilica, St. Nicolas in St. Nicolas de Port.

St. Nicolas' altar
As early as 1093, the first church was built to house a finger from Saint Nicolas' blessing hand, which the crusader Aubert de Varangéville had brought from Bari in 1090. Due to the large influx of pilgrims, a second, larger church was built beginning in 1193. It is said that Joan of Arc prayed there in 1429 before she saved France.

A breathtaking view toward the high altar
The present-day late-Gothic basilica was built starting in 1481 on behalf of the Duke of Lorraine, René II, and consecrated in 1560. It is said that the duke was thereby fulfilling a vow he had made in prayer in 1477, should he defeat the enemy Burgundians - which he did with the help of his friends in the battle of Nancy.


Only a glance at the floor plan reveals that the church building has a slight bend. According to ChatGPT, the most likely explanation for the bend is a combination of structural factors and the lengthy construction period. The interpretation of it as a symbol of Christ's bowed head is widespread and theologically appealing, but there is no historical evidence to support this interpretation for this basilica.


Storks perched on a distant corner of a roof clattered their "Que Dieu vous protège."

 Thank you, organizers, for this remarkable excursion.
**

Friday, July 10, 2026

Strasbourg

This year's Museumsreise was a successful excursion to the European Parliament in Strasbourg, followed by a visit to Nancy, the capital of Lorraine. 


Special thanks go to Prof. Ronald Asch and Dr. Karl Schäfer for the well-prepared program.


Our group arrived at the Rotunda of the European Parliament, and before Red Baron could take a photo, they were off to the discussion with Engin Eroglu, an MEP* of the Freie Wähler party associated with the Renew Europe Group. Eroglu is a member of the Committee on Economic and Monetary Affairs and the Committee on Foreign Affairs of the European Parliament.
*Member of the European Parliament   

MEP Eroglu answered our questions at length
In the field of trade and foreign policy, Engin Eroglu was nominated as one of the 5 most influential members of the European Parliament in the Influence Index 2021.

Blue-eyed Red Baron took a "forbidden" photo of the debate
and was gently reprimanded by a charming female guard
We were then escorted into the plenary chamber, where 720 Members of the European Parliament discussed Urgent measures to strengthen competitiveness and secure high-quality jobs in the EU’s automotive sector

This is an issue that particularly concerns Germany’s declining car industry. Each MEP was limited to one minute of speaking time. Note the countdown on the screen, turning from green to red after 60 seconds.


The subject of the debate was of rather secondary importance. The crowning achievement of any parliament is the passage of the budget.
         

On our way out, we crossed the impressive inner courtyard once more.


A view back at the parliament building through transparent walls.

Some of the group had lunch on their way downtown, with the cathedral's spire guiding the way. Time was short. 

For more, here is a link to a trip to Strasbourg in 2023, especially devoted to the Minster church. Therefore, I present only two impressive photos in this blog.
 

The world-famous rose window on the rear facade and a modern depiction of Mary, the cathedral’s patron saint, in the apse.
          

There were two observations on our way back to the bus.


The Italian tagliatelle become French tagliatélles, and the German Knackwurst becomes Alsatian knak. All is served à la crème for just 10.90 euros. Enjoy your meal!!


La gloire de France
hangs over Rue d'Austerlitz.

Stay tuned for a more extensive blog about Nancy.
**

Sunday, July 5, 2026

Can One Serve Two Masters?

Professor Bernhard Uhde delivered his lecture, “Kann man zwei Herren dienen? Can One Serve Two Masters?” - subtitled “Zum Verhältnis von Religion und Demokratie (On the Relationship Between Religion and Democracy)“ — as the keynote address during the 175th Stiftungsfest (foundation celebration) of the Freiburg Fraternity Teutonia.

Their house is located on the lot next to my apartment building, and so it is customary for Teutonia to invite its neighbors to its annual Stiftungsfest.

Despite the summer heat, Lecture Hall 1021 at the university was packed, as Professor Uhde has a reputation for delivering lectures that, while scientifically precise, are easy to understand and, spiced with Bavarian humor, are entertaining.

Bernhard Uhde embodies human warmth and, in doing so, paves the way for peaceful dialogue between people of different religious orientations. He is committed to making religious diversity understandable, fostering mutual respect, and, in the process, keeping traditions visible within the context.


The photo of Professor Uhde was taken during a lecture last year. In Freiburg, too, he delivered his talk while seated, due, as he explained, to a discomfort in his left Haxen (calf). And in Freiburg, as well, he did not begin his lecture without three preliminary remarks - which eventually turned into four.
 
The title of the lecture is a passage from the Sermon on the Mount and can be found in the Gospel according to  Matthew 6:24:

“No one can serve two masters: Either you will hate the one and love the other, or you will be devoted to the one and despise the other. You cannot serve both God and Mammon.”


Democracy is a product of the Enlightenment. It allows people to live together rationally, for it is self-evident that all men are created equal. Thus, all people are equal before God as well - though not within church institutions, since they are not democratic.

The statement in the American Declaration of Independence is generally understood to mean that all people are equal in dignity and entitled to equal rights.

Thus, people live freely within a state, but they are also free in relation to religion, because they can freely choose to believe in God.

However, human beings cannot be loyal to two things at once if they contradict each other. They cannot make both God and another higher authority (power, money, ideology, or their own ego) the supreme standard in equal measure, for then they would find themselves in an internal conflict. Ultimately, the question of the supreme guiding principle in life remains.

Finaly, according to Prof. Uhde, the saying “No one can serve two masters” takes a surprising turn, for religion and democracy are not two masters at all, since they do not claim the same thing.

- Democracy is based on the sovereignty of the people, majority decisions, and the openness of political processes.

- Religion is grounded in the struggle against transience. It claims to provide guidance based on an ultimate truth.

The two compete with one another only when either religion seeks to seize political power or when democracy elevates itself to the status of an ideological doctrine of salvation.

Prof. Uhde cited Islam as a “modern” example. Where fundamentalist Islam exists, democracy does not.

Abul A’la Maududi held the view that sovereignty belongs to God alone. Therefore, the people cannot create laws at their own discretion. In a “theo-democracy,” democratic procedures are permissible only within the limits of Sharia law.

Ruhollah Khomeini declared that God’s laws must not be replaced by majority decisions, and thus Iran’s political system is based on this principle.

Representatives of the Taliban have repeatedly stated that democracy is a Western system and incompatible with Islam. Instead, they advocate for an Islamic emirate.

Ideological writings by al-Qaeda and the Islamic State also condemn democracy and call for a theocracy.

Prof. Uhde concluded: For a free person, religion and democracy are not contradictory but complementary, because

- Religion seeks to answer questions about ultimate meaning, truth, and ethical guidance for humanity.

- Democracy is the sometimes difficult endeavor to enable people with different views to live together peacefully and to make political decisions.

Thank you, Professor Uhde, for your "enlightening" lecture.
**



Saturday, June 27, 2026

We're Having a Heat Dome

(©ZDF)
While in Europe in June 2019, we were suffering from a tropical heatwave; we are now smoldering under a tropical heat dome over Europe that has only slowly moved over the last five days.


When Ella sang "Gee her anatomy, made the mercury, jump to ninety three. Yes, sir!" today, the mercury didn't jump to 93 °F (34 °C), but at 6:18 PM it climbed to 36.9 °C (98.4 °F) on my shadowed terrace.
 
The temperature in my living room is 28.9 °C, which is tolerable because the relative humidity is only 50%. Despite the windows being closed, the CO2 level remains within the green range due to the apartment's large volume.

When I wake up these days at 4 AM, I open the windows at opposite ends of my apartment wide to make a Durchzug (draught). This Querlüften (cross ventilation) improves air exchange.

At 7 AM, it's time to close the windows again because the outside temperature is approaching 30 °C.

©WP
On June 24, the heat dome lingered over France ...

©WP
 ... slowly sneaking into Central Europe and the British Isles by June 27.

©CNN
Temperature records were broken all over Europe

Charming weatherwoman Claire in "2050" (©WP)
In 2014, extrapolating from past data, Météo France predicted a hypothetical heat wave in August 2050. 

A shock. The hypothetical scenario happened 24 years earlier! (©WP)
There are still people who deny climate change and dismiss more frequent, longer heat waves as mere weather anomalies. However, scientists are concerned about the accelerating rise in temperature.

©WP
©WP
©WP
©NYT
Is this year's abnormal El Niño reaching out to Europe?

Unfortunately, the caricature has melted (©Mario Lars)
**