Showing posts with label Environment. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Environment. Show all posts

Sunday, August 30, 2026

Dimmuborgir, Dettifoss and Hverarönd


The next highlight of the Iceland trip was our entry into the surreal world of Dimmuborgir, known as the lava rock labyrinth.


We explored the impressive surroundings on a walk.



The bizarre columns and ridges at Dimmuborgir are the remains of steam vents that formed when lava pooled over marshland. As it flowed over the wet ground, the water within it began to boil, and steam rose to the surface through vents up to several meters in diameter. After the crust of the lava sheet solidified, molten lava continued to flow beneath. Eventually, the crust collapsed, but the vents and parts of the cooled-down lava sheet remained.



Watch out, but we already knew about the faults.


Then we stopped at Dettifoss (Icelandic detta "fall"; foss "waterfall"). The "double fall" underlines that it is the second most powerful waterfall in Europe after the Rhine Falls.


Here, the Jökulsá á Fjöllum River plunges into the Jökulsárgljúfur Gorge.


Spanning about 100 meters wide, the waters plunge 44 meters into the depths, generating about 85 megawatts of electrical power.



The gray-brown waters continue to flow about 30 kilometers into the Arctic Ocean.
 

Many bridges on Ring Road 1, Iceland's main highway, are single-lane. The old bridge is now used by pedestrians to cross the Jökulsá á Fjöllum River, while downstream - in the background - a new two-lane bridge carries vehicular traffic. Note: Iceland has no railroads.


On our way to Hverarönd, a field of volcanic activity with hot springs, we had to cross the Námaskarð Pass (Icelandic náma, "mine"; skarð, "pass") and saw water vapor from a geothermal power plant in the distance.


Hverarönd
is characterized by a variety of hot springs, boiling mud pools and mud pots, and solfataras. Sulfur used to be mined here ( náma),


Solfataras are fumaroles with temperatures ranging from 100 °C to 250 °C. These post-volcanic exhalations consist of hydrogen sulfide (H₂S), carbon dioxide (CO₂), and water vapor. The hydrogen sulfide produces the distinctive smell of rotten eggs. 
 
Upon contact with atmospheric oxygen, hydrogen sulfide oxidizes to form elemental sulfur and sulfur dioxide, which dissolves in water to form sulfurous acid (H₂SO₃). 
 
This acid corrodes the rock and soil and, together with the hot water vapor, causes the mineral components to decompose. This often results in the formation of mud pots, from which gases escape as bubbles.


The sulfur-laden soil stifles all plant life.
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Sunday, August 23, 2026

Grenjaðarstaður and Myvátn

On the fourth day of our trip to Iceland, we first visited the open-air museum of the Grenjaðarstaður peat farm.


The Grenjaðarstaður parish had been based at the peat farm since 1865.

A layer of peat on the rocks
Volcanic rock, peat from the surrounding area, and driftwood were used to build the farmstead. Most of the driftwood came from Siberia and took up to five years to reach this location.


Immediately to the left of the entrance to this housing complex is the so-called "Golden Room," which is furnished entirely in the style of the 19th-century bourgeoisie. The middle photo shows Pastor Benedikt Kristjánsson, who served here as pastor from 1876 to 1907. His wife, Regina Sívertssen, is pictured on the left. She died in 1884, and Benedikt married Ólöf Ásta, his second wife, pictured on the right.


Initially, cooking was done over an open fire. In the old peat-farmhouses, there was very little ventilation.


The women, who worked at the hearth from dawn to dusk, suffered from lung and eye diseases.

You will find a coffee pot just about anywhere in Iceland

So the modern stove came at just the right time. The women working here could occasionally look out the window and watch what was going on at the neighboring farm.

On the left: By moving the end panel, the bed width could be adjusted to suit individual needs.
Adjacent to the "kitchen" is the Pilthúsið, a room that served as both a sleeping and working area for the workers at Grenjaðarstaður.


On the other side of the corridor is Elísabet Jónsdóttir's room. She was the wife of Pastor Kristjansson's successor, Pastor Pétur Hjálmarsson. Elísabet was exceptionally musical. She was not only the parish organist and choir director, but also one of the first women to publish her compositions in Iceland. In her room, she taught not only music but also needlework.


In the farm's pantry, you admire a barrel used to store salted fish, as well as a butter churn.


The Grenjaðarstaðarkirkja stands in the churchyard. It was built of wood in 1865. The bells date from 1663 and 1740 and hang above the gateway.


The church's interior is kept simple.


Our next stop was the picturesque area around Lake Myvátn, which ranks among Iceland's most remarkable sights, particularly due to its volcanic features.


A basaltic eruption of the volcano Krafla 2300 years ago formed a natural dam, preventing accumulated water from draining away. It pooled into Myvátn, the Lake of Midges.


The midgets were many, annoying, and some of them biting. We bought mosquito nets to cover our heads.

©Wikipedia
The rift between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates, the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, which we already met at Đingvellir, also runs through this region. The Myvátn area remains volcanically active.
 

The rift is widening. The midges rejoice: Iceland's land area is steadily growing.
**

Wednesday, August 19, 2026

The Great Drought of 1540

Hot and dry summers like the one we're experiencing now have occurred time and again, which is why the article "The Year-Long Unprecedented European Heat and Drought of 1540 - A Worst-Case Scenario," published in the journal Climatic Change, caught Red Baron's attention.


I tried to read the original article - especially since my late friend Iso is a co-author - but Springer Publishing has a paywall that can only be passed for €39.90.

In the article, 32 climate historians have painstakingly compiled, analyzed, and evaluated data from more than 300 chronicles, i.e., records kept by farmers, churches, and lock keepers, revealing Europe's great natural disaster.

It's a shame, but the price was too high. However, the European heat and drought wave of 1540 is well documented elsewhere, so I've compiled the information from those freely available sources.

The weather disaster of 1540 had already begun in 1539 in southern Europe but went unnoticed north of the Alps. In Spain, people had been holding processions to pray for rain since October. 

In Italy, the winter of 1539/40 was dry and warm "like July." Although the 16th century fell right in the middle of Europe's Little Ice Age, not a single drop of rain fell from October 1539 to early 1540, while people were rather sensitive to wet and cold summers.

North of the Alps, the millennium drought of 1540 began in the winter. As early as February, a high-pressure system formed over Europe, blocking the influence of the Atlantic and, in turn, the supply of moisture. Although a few storms still moved in, by April the continent was largely shielded from rain clouds.

For 26 weeks, no precipitation fell from France to Poland and from the Po Valley to northern Germany. From late June to early August, not a single drop cooled the brutal heat. An unprecedented 11-month-long Megadrought swept across Europe, including the British Isles.

The dried-up earth reflected even more heat into the atmosphere, feeding an unbearable heatwave. Temperatures were five to seven degrees above the high 20th-century levels. Reformer Martin Luther interpreted this as a sign of the end times. Officials ordered clergy in Germany, Italy, and England to beg God for forgiveness and pray for rain.

Hans Stolz, a winemaker from Guebwiller, Alsace, provided a detailed month-by-month account of the drought of 1540:

©Wikimedia
The year 1540. Although January of that year was unusually cold, February began warm and dry throughout; in March, it rained for three days, and on the first morning after that, there was frost; once the morning passed, the day became quite warm until the end of March; April was completely dry and arid, with no rain or snow falling until the end; May was completely dry and nice until the end; a quarter pound of grain was worth a pound of wine. June was completely dry at the beginning, but toward the end it rained occasionally, though not much, and there was plenty of hay; the month of June began to become terribly dry, and remained so until the end, so that such a dreadful water shortage began in this country that the people suffered great hunger due to the lack of grain, and the crops ...

Streams dried up and grew narrower and narrower. Even major rivers like the Elbe, Rhine, and Seine were so small that one could wade across without getting one's feet wet.

No water powered the mills to grind grain into flour: flour and bread prices skyrocketed.

The harvest withered, and most food was in short supply. With nowhere to pasture, cattle died of heat stroke and hunger, decimating Europe's dairy supply.

As early as the beginning of August, the trees were shedding their bone-dry leaves, as if it were already fall.

As if famine wasn't enough, Europeans were also chased from their homes by forest and structural fires. The dry ground caught fire, and forest and brush fires blazed across the countryside, creeping into the towns densely packed with half-timbered houses. There wasn't any water to put out the fire.

In Germany alone, 33 towns burned. The blaze of Einbeck reduced the entire town to ashes in a matter of hours, causing as many as 500 deaths. For weeks, gray smoke shrouded the continent, behind which the sun and moon nearly vanished as pale red glimmers.

Instead of water, God delivered wine - some of the best ever "created." The extreme heat meant that by the usual harvest time, grapes in Germany and France had dried almost to raisins. The resulting "late harvest" or Spätlese wine was deliciously sweet.

A "Kaiserwein" was harvested in Würzburg from a grape crop that had largely withered away and was pressed into specially crafted Prunkfässer (ceremonial barrels).

It was a stroke of luck; the 1540 Würzburg Stein is considered the oldest known single-vineyard wine and the invention of the Spätlese style.

The Millennium Wine of 1540 is in the middle bottle.
The last known bottle of this wine is kept at the Bürgerspital zum Heiligen Geist in Würzburg.

Most wells and springs lay barren. Those that still gave a little water were strictly guarded. In some regions, drinking wine was cheaper and safer than drinking water, since peasants were charged for well water, which was often contaminated by human waste.

Several hundred thousand people lost their lives because of dysentery, an intestinal infection that causes bloody diarrhea. It is thought that the death toll from disease had the greatest impact of all the miseries wrought by the 1540 drought. Estimates are that half a million Europeans succumbed to diseases, most after drinking tainted water.

With tens of thousands left unhoused, unemployed, and often diseased, local leaders quickly gave in to paranoia to explain the calamities. Authorities searched for scapegoats. At the time of the Reformation, they were found in religious opponents and climate refugees wandering around Germany.

Temperature anomaly in Freiburg for July and August 2026 (©BZ)
What about 2026? For weeks now, Red Baron has watched nature wither from exceptional dryness: the grass is yellow, the Dreisam is nearly dry, and the soil has turned to dust. More and more trees are dropping their leaves. Rivers like the Rhine have turned into trickles.

         In Freiburg, 2026 holds the longest streak of temperatures above 30 °C, and the summer is not over yet (©BZ)
Spring 2026 and the first half of summer rank among the driest ever recorded. The drought is comparable to the historic dry spells of 1976, 2003, and 2018. 

©Hadi/Wikipedia
Are we facing the threat of a millennium drought like in 1540? 

©Copernicus
The 2026 drought will probably not end in the summer. It will extend well into the fall, and rivers are likely to reach even lower levels in early fall than they are now.

Burning of witches (©Wikimedia)
The 16th-century drought and today's drought are similar in many ways, but back then, the blame wasn't placed on climate change - it was on witches. Hungry migrants were rounded up and tortured in hopes of eliciting confessions.

In 1540, for city fires, Martin Luther gave credence to fake news of a papal plot to incinerate Protestant towns.

In 2026, forest fires raging across Europe are being blamed on paranoid arsonists.

On Monday morning, I witnessed a rare weather phenomenon. I think they call it rain. People were dancing bareheaded, and dogs were sticking out their tongues to catch the precious drops.

It was too little, too late.
**

Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Europe's Summer of 2026

There hasn't been any significant rainfall in southwestern Germany since mid-June, while one heat wave has followed another. The fifth one is on its way and will peak this Friday at 38°C (100°F).
 
Here is a photo gallery showing the full extent of the heat and drought damage in the Old World.
 
The Rhine River at Cologne (©AP)
The fire fronts of wildfires in Spain, Portugal, France, and Greece (©AP)
Beachgoers on France's Atlantic coast are contemplating wildfires near Bordeaux  (©AP)
Burnt-out forests ... (©AP)
... and charred cars (©AP)
Heat protests in Zurich, Switzerland (©AP)
A lorry is crossing the Tejo River in Spain (©AP)
At temperatures above 30 C, Leipzig's streetcars squeeze the insulating bitumen out of their track bed (©AP)
A swimming dock on Lake Constance leads to dry land (©AP)
A whirlwind over Lake Constance is an extremely rare phenomenon (©AP)
Swimmers in Romania next to a World War II shipwreck in what remains of the Danube River (©AP)
The dry bed of the Haslacher Dorfbach in Freiburg (©Kathrin Blum/BZ)
Freiburg's Park on the Lake (©Kathrin Blum/BZ)
How similar the landscapes look: New York's Central Park (©AP)

It follows a horror scenario for the Americas.
      
(©NYT)
Will the 2026 El Niño affect Europe's climate?
**