Vatnajökull reached its greatest extent in the late 19th century, but
its tongues have since retreated due to climate change. The glacier covers
seven active volcanoes, so geothermal heat keeps lakes beneath it. Glacial
rivers originating from Vatnajökull created large outwash plains.
Our first stop was the Skeiðará Bridge Monument, a monument made of twisted iron girders. In October 1996, the dormant Gjálp volcano erupted beneath the Vatnajökull. The heat melted massive amounts of ice, which collected beneath the glacier to form a lake. In late November, this subglacial lake burst, resulting in a jökulhlaup (glacial flood) that carried up to 45,000 m³ of water per second, along with meter-high floating ice floes.
The flood wave destroyed a large section of Iceland's Ring Road as well as its longest bridge, the 900-meter Skeiðará Bridge. The bent steel girders, twisted like wire, bear witness to the impact of the plummeting masses of ice.
An artist's idealized view of the south side of the Vatnajökull
And here is the map. On the left is the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier tongue and Jökulsárlón; in the middle is the mighty Skeiðarárjökull tongue.
Further west, we visited the Vatnajökull National Park visitor
center in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, where lava samples were on
display.
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On the left is Apalhraun (A'a) lava filled with gas that makes it
porous and its surface rugged. On the right is Stuðuli (basalt)
lava, which forms hexagonal columns as it cools.
This is a good introduction to Eldhraun, the world's largest lava field, covering about 565 km² and located south of the Ring Road between Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Vík.
On June 8, 1783, preceded by several earthquakes, the Laki crater fissure opened, and approximately 12–14 km³ of basaltic lava poured over part of southern Iceland. The eruptions lasted until February 7, 1784, and are considered one of the largest documented in recorded history.
The eruption devastated much of southern Iceland. Approximately 10,000
people (about 20% of the population) died from famine and fluorine
poisoning, as toxic gases destroyed livestock and crops. In Iceland, this is
called Móðuharðindin (the fog disaster), as aerosols spread across
the Northern Hemisphere, causing crop failures and a cooler summer. Some
historians think that the poor harvests in France and the resulting famines
were one trigger of the Revolution.
The vegetation is hraungambri (fringed moss) that thrives on nutrient-poor, porous lava rock because it absorbs water and nutrients not through roots but through a fine network of leaves. Over about 250 years, a thick, cottony-soft layer of moss has formed, up to 40-60 cm thick in places. When dry, it appears grayish-white (little rain in Iceland, too), but when wet it glows a rich green. The moss is extremely delicate, which is why it is only allowed to walk along marked trails. Once trampled, the moss takes decades to recover.
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| Low-hanging clouds and a little church |
Atlantic waves have since eroded the black lava columns, forming the sand and
leaving vertical cliffs.
Looking south, you notice a gigantic black arch of lava standing in the sea, eroded by the waves. The rock protrusion extending from the mainland, with the hole, gave the peninsula its name, Dyrhólaey (door hill island).
Looking south, you notice a gigantic black arch of lava standing in the sea, eroded by the waves. The rock protrusion extending from the mainland, with the hole, gave the peninsula its name, Dyrhólaey (door hill island).
As promised by the tour operator, we not only enjoyed a spectacular view of the coastline, but since it was summer, we had the chance to spot numerous adorable puffins.
In German, these cute birds are called Papageientaucher (parrot divers).
We continued toward Reykjavík and passed the Skógafoss waterfall.
These cliffs formed from marine erosion at the end of the last Ice Age, when the sea level was much higher than it is now. As the glacier melted and its weight lifted, the land rose out of the sea.
Our ever-concerned tour guide, Andrí, is looking for his flock.
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| The Eyjafjallajökull and Myrdaljökull glaciers. To the left is Iceland's capital, Reykjavík |
The river Skóga is fed by meltwater from the
Eyjafjallajökull and Myrdaljökull glaciers. When the water
reaches the cliffs, it rushes down as a beautifully shaped waterfall:
Skógafoss, 15 m wide and 62 m high.
These cliffs formed from marine erosion at the end of the last Ice Age, when the sea level was much higher than it is now. As the glacier melted and its weight lifted, the land rose out of the sea.
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| ©Steinninn/Wikipedia |
Hallgrímskirkja* is a Lutheran parish church in Reykjavík built in Icelandic modernism and natural aesthetics. The form is inspired by basalt columns. It is Iceland's largest church and, at 74 meters, the country's second-tallest building.
*The church is named after the Church hymn writer and cleric
Hallgrímur Pétursson
Since its completion in 1986, it has been regarded not only as Reykjavík's
architectural landmark but also as an important symbol of Iceland's national
identity.
The statue is a replica of the original located in Copenhagen Cathedral (Vor Frue Kirke). Kristus is considered one of the most significant works of Scandinavian classicism by the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen.
A stained-glass window depicts Mary and the Baby Jesus. A Marian chapel in
a Lutheran church? Red Baron asked ChatGPT.
I focused on the statue of Christ on the left.
The statue is a replica of the original located in Copenhagen Cathedral (Vor Frue Kirke). Kristus is considered one of the most significant works of Scandinavian classicism by the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen.
But this artwork in the church's northern aisle intrigued me.
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| Known as Madonna And Child, Hallgrímskirkja, Reykjavik |
Hallgrímskirkja received the stained-glass window of the Virgin Mary
as a gift, and indeed parishioners initially found its acceptance
controversial. However, the church is not simply decorated in a Catholic
style; rather, Mary is understood here in a Christological sense: the focus
is not on Mary, but on the Christ Child.
In an ancient Christian iconographic tradition, Mary sits with the Christ
Child in a cosmic, star-filled heavenly setting. She appears here not as a
realistic mother, but as the Theotokos (God-bearer).
The Christ Child spreads his arms wide, which can be understood as a
reference to his later crucifixion. In this way, the depiction links
Christ's birth and Passion.
Were these also the reasons why Luther, despite his aversion to all saints,
venerated the Mother of God throughout his life — and why there is a St.
Mary's Church in Wittenberg and the Church of "Our Lady" in Dresden?
This ends the heptalogy of my Iceland blogs, as there are:
and this blog.
Goodbye, Iceland.
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