Sunday, June 21, 2015

Brägel

It is generally known that Europe imported potatoes from South America about 400 years ago and that Frederick the Great made enormous efforts to introduce this staple food to Prussia. Potatoes fed Prussia's growing population and made its food supply less dependent on harvesting cereal grains.

Frederick inspecting the harvesting of his favorite staple food
that the farmers subserviently present to the "potato king."
Rumors were frequently spread that Frederick's troops were superior to other armies solely fed on cereal grains because of the Prussian Grenadiers' potato (not spinach!) diet.

Frederick, on the eve of the Battle of Torgau (1760) that he, nearly lost.
Dreamily, he observes a country lass boiling potatoes on an open fire.
Did the miracle tuber save Frederick's upcoming day?
Potatoes are still popular in Europe. Here in Germany, kids, in particular, adore them in the form of Pommes Frites (French fries) called Pommes rot with ketchup, Pommes weiß with mayonnaise, or even Pommes rot-weiß. Another popular preparation is frying sliced potatoes in a pan.

Following the white asparagus season ending at Sankt Johannis (June 24), restaurants in the Freiburg region seamlessly continue with Brägel weeks at the beginning of July before the chanterelle season takes over. Brägel is not to be confused with Brägele, which are generally considered like Bratkartoffeln (home fries) as served in northern Germany. And then there are still the Rösti in Switzerland.

Let us work on the difference between all these delicious potato dishes and start with Brägel. Brägel are made from thinly grated boiled potatoes formed into a patty, seasoned with pepper and salt, and baked in a pan on both sides using Schmalz (lard).

Brägel (©Hochschwarzwälder Brägelwochen 2015)
This sounds like Rösti, but the Swiss specialty is made instead of raw potatoes.

Rösti (©Wikipedia/Musskelprozz)
Some people consider Brägele to be a diminutive of Brägel, but they are mistaken. Brägele served here in Freiburg are sliced potatoes. The slices are fried in a pan with bacon and onions and are called Bratkartoffeln (home fries) in High German.

Brägele with Wiener Schnitzel (©fudder)
Red Baron's experience is that Brägele are not as tasty as Bratkartoffeln served in the north of Germany. Why is it so? I can only guess. It seems to judge from the consistency of the fried potatoes that Brägele are generally made from boiled potatoes, whereas in the north, Bratkartoffeln are usually made from raw potatoes. This means Bratkartoffeln come out crustier and have more bite (al dente) than Brägele.

Here are Bratkartoffeln (home fries) I had in Hamburg last year
with gebratene Pfifferlinge (chanterelles sautées) served with Rührei (scrambled eggs).
I have never had Brägel, but tasting the difference from Rösti would be interesting.
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