The Erasmus Gulli

Those of my readers who have strolled Freiburg certainly noticed the city's manhole covers (Gullideckel) showing the Freiburg seal, its version dating back to 1245. The meaning of the depiction has been the subject of many speculations, such as whether it symbolizes freedom (the city gates are open), security (the fortified town), or justice (wind players blow the horn, calling for the day of judgment).

©Matthias Deutschmann

For the city's 900th anniversary, the cabaret artist Matthias Deutschmann designed the Freiburg Gulli. It is not a new bitcoin but simply a medal showing the Freiburg seal surrounded by a Latin text: Civitas Friburgenensis non omnino suo nomini respondet. EROS AD CDXXVI.

The prince of all humanists, Erasmus of Rotterdam, wrote this Latin statement in 1526 in Basel while remembering a visit to Freiburg in  March 1523, where he met his friend Huldrichus Zasius. He finds the 68-year-old worthy of praise, "I have yet to see anything in Germany that I admired as much as the character of Ulrich Zasius."

Erasmus's great respect for Zasius probably goes back to the Freiburg Lenten controversy of 1523. During his visit, Erasmus stayed at the Gasthaus zum Schiff, where he was served only Lenten food following the ecclesiastical season. 

Like many of his contemporaries, Erasmus suffered from gout and kidney stones. He also had a weak stomach as a hypochondriac, so he had to keep a diet and, therefore, had a dispensation from the Pope. The innkeeper did not know this.

One evening, Zasius invited his honored friend to his house, "Zum Wolfseck," on Herrenstraße and had something substantial cooked for his guest. A few overzealous people in the city, which had already been trimmed to a radically anti-reformatory course by their sovereign Ferdinand I, discovered this and denounced Zasius to the city council. Eventually, Zasius received an official reprimand and a fine.

Erasmus's remark, "Freiburg doesn't quite live up to its name," refers to the above incident. "I have not been allowed to eat fish for a long time, and although I have a dispensation from the Pope, it would be considered a crime at Freiburg if I did not keep the fast strictly."

Later, in 1529, fleeing the events of a radical reformation (iconoclasm) in his hometown of Basel, Erasmus found refuge and resided in Freiburg until 1537.

But he did not like the climate; the constant fog was annoying, and it rained too much. Compared to Basel, Freiburg is too provincial for the man of letters; the market offers too little choice, the wine is terrible, and the goods are too expensive. He also finds the constant ringing of the Franciscan church opposite his residence on Franziskanergasse and his neighbors annoying.

To his Dominican friend Gasperi Scheto, her wrote, "There is enormous impurity here. Through all the streets of this city runs an artificially guided stream. It takes in the bloody juices of butchers, the stench of all kitchens, the filth of all houses, the vomit and urine of all [passersby], even the feces of those with no latrine at home."

"With this water, the linen cloths are washed, wine glasses are cleaned, even the cooking pots. This could be endured if there was something proper to eat: I live on chicken all year round. There are no lavish feasts here; if there are, they are denounced to the authorities ..."

Erasmus' appreciation of Freiburg continues to gripe, "The city is pretty, but not populated enough [like metropolitan Basel], the town is small, and the inhabitants are superstitious.

Erasmus' rejection of the city culminated in the remark, "I would rather live among the Turks." Finally, in 1535, he secretly left Freiburg for Basel, where he died a year later.

My German-speaking readers may like to read the full story here.

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