On their 2015 trip,
Freiburg's Museumsgesellschaft
visited an old German cultural landscape east of the Harz mountains comprising
Quedlinburg,
Halberstadt, and
Goslar. Our hotel was in Halberstadt but the first day of our stay was devoted to
Quedlinburg.
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Heinrich accepts the German crown. A stained glass window in
Quedlinburg's town hall.
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According to an old tale, the Germanic princes offered the German crown to the
Duke of Saxony, Heinrich, while he was snaring finches at the Quedlinburg site
in 919. The coronation of
Henry the Fowler is regarded as one of the key elements of the First German Reich that ended in
1806 when, following Napoleon's conquests in Europe, the last Kaiser Franz I.
abdicated.
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Walking up the hill to the castle, we passed the famous Finkenherd, although other sources claim that the legendary site was in Fritzlar
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The Burgberg on the renowned model of Quedlinburg in the
Rathaus
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Under the Saxon kings, Quedlinburg was one of the leading cities in the Reich.
The castle and mighty abbey church St. Servatius bear witness.
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Castle and church in the 19th century ...
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... and today. Note the change of the spires of St. Servatius.
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When King Henry died in 1036, he was buried in St. Servatius. With the 1000th
anniversary of Henry's death in 1936 approaching, another Heinrich,
Reichsführer-SS Himmler, not only decided to commemorate but to re-incarnate the
first German king. On July 2, 1936, Himmler had a crucifix and the Bible removed
from the church, entered the building, and deposited a wreath on Henry's
tomb.
In the following years, Himmler ordered the clergy out of the abbey church and
had its interior transformed into a Germanic temple. When in the course of the
transformation, archeologists opened Henry's grave, they found it empty. Himmler
needed some good advice. In the end, the SS defined some excavated old bones as
those of the first Saxon king and interred them in a new sarcophagus bearing the
inscription:
Heinrich der Erste, der Deutschen König (Henry the
First, King of the Germans).
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Quedlinburg's German temple in 1940
(©Fotoarchiv Landesamt für Denkmalpflege und Archäologie Sachsen-Anhalt)
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With the end of the war, the horrific episode was history. Today when you visit
St. Servatius, you will see Henry's old and broken sarcophagus empty.
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Today: St. Servatius "restored"
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