Saturday, December 24, 2022

Hamburg Splinters

My latest organized visit to Hamburg started by train from Freiburg Hauptbahnhof on December 12 at 9:48 AM. During the trip, the ICE 76 was diverted due to the deployment of an emergency doctor in the tracks (euphemistic for someone who threw himself in front of a train) and finally stopped longer in the small town station of Riedstadt-Goddelau.

Remember to click the photos to enlarge them.


Looking out the window, I thought visiting the Büchnerhaus, his birthplace, would have been possible if our train had stopped longer.

Wikipedia knows about the giant of the German language:

The Büchnerhaus in Riedstadt-Goddelau is the birthplace of the playwright Georg Büchner. Today, the house is a cultural center with a literature museum.

Büchner was born here on October 17, 1813, in the small room on the second floor that the young family had rented. His father was a country doctor at the time and thus was also responsible for the physical illnesses of the inmates of the Philippshospital, one of the first psychiatric hospitals in the world. However, at the time, as a "madhouse," it was more of an asylum.

Here, young George must have gotten the insight for his drama Wozzeck.

We were only 45 minutes late arriving at Hamburg Central Station, so the total travel time was 6 hours 35 minutes.

©warrel040/Wikipedia
Our venerable Reichshof hotel was located directly opposite the central station.

The lobby is styled art deco.
The hotel is a cultural monument in Hamburg's St.Georg district.
  
Freizeit from13.00 -16.30
This time, the trip organized by the Badische Zeitung was characterized by lots of free time at our disposal (Zeit zur freien Verfügung). This makes group travel fluffier for the participants and cheaper for the organizer.


Stadtrundfahrt

As in the past, the obligatory sightseeing tour by bus rounded the Außenalster (Outer Alster), traveled along the Reeperbahn to Altona, and up the Elbe River along the Landungsbrücken back to the city center. 

Red Baron learned two new details.

On Feenteichbrücke.
To the right is Hamburg's Senate (government) guest house.
President Trump stayed there in 2017 during the G7 summit.
It is customary to kiss someone when you cross the Feenteichbrücke (Fairy Pond Bridge) at the Outer Alster. Nobody was at hand, and nobody on the bus kissed Red Baron.


The Altona Town Hall was originally the Altona-Kiel Railway Company station building. In 1844, Altona was a Danish port city on the Elbe River. Subsequently, the station was opened on the king's birthday for Christian VIII Østersø Jernbane (King Christian VIII Baltic Railway) on September 18, 1844.


The bus tour ended at Gänsemarkt, the gateway to Hamburg's Christmas markets. The former geese market (Germans adopted the turkey only after the war) is an appropriate seasonal place.

Gotthold Ephraim Lessing with a birdie on Gänsemarkt
Lessing, a precursor of the German classic (Goethe, Schiller), was the first serious dramaturg at Abel Seyler's Hamburg National Theatre. With his Hamburg Dramaturgy, Lessing decisively shaped German theater culture.

Maximilian II, Duke of Bavaria
Birdies on statues are standard. I took the above example in Munich in 2006.

Hamburg Rathaus and Christmas Market.
Note the Wichern Advent wreath with its 24 candles.
From Gänsemarkt, we walked along Jungfernstieg past Christmas stalls to the Rathausmarkt. At Christmas markets, the drink of choice is mulled wine. Visitors may choose finger food between sweet, sour, and salty.

©Bucerius Art Forum
While most of my fellow travelers sought the ultimate Christmas kick, Red Baron uncoupled and visited the exhibition New Images in the Age of Augustus at the Bucerius Art Forum.


Elphi

Our group listened to Beethoven's Missa Solemnis in D major op. 123 at the Elbphilharmonie in the evening.

The Orchestre des Champs-Elysees and the Collegium Vocale Gent are seated,
waiting for the conductor.
Greeting the audience: 
The ensemble is standing, and Conductor Philippe Herreweghe bowing.


Hafencity

The morning zur freien Verfügung
In the early morning hours, Red Baron went to see his former high school GOA, where he was interviewed by two students, "Grandpa, tell us about the schooling before 1954." The students will produce a video while I provide a few blurred B&W photos.

In the afternoon, our group visited the new Hamburg quarter Hafencity built on the premises and free plots of the former Speicherstadt (warehouse district).
 
Gewürzmuseum (spice museum) in the twilight
Elphi in the sunset
The highlight of the evening: Kale cooked the north German way.
Simply delicious (©MIA).


Departure Day

On the free morning of our departure, I visited the paintings of the exhibition Femme Fatale at the Hamburger Kunsthalle. Here is the blog.

Before we mounted the train to Freiburg, I saw franz & friends at the Hauptbahnhof.

The only thing I need on an ICE train:
A pot of coffee and a Franzbrötchen
This is my last blog on the eve of Christmas 2022. While the US is covered with too much snow, we in Freiburg enjoy spring-like temperatures. 

Although I had a winter feeling before I left for Hamburg. The evening before my departure, I took a photo of my backyard.


It shall serve as the background for my best wishes to my readers:

A Merry Christmas
*

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