Tuesday, September 30, 2025

My Class Reunion 2025

As usual, my now 47th Klassentreffen took place in Hamburg on the third Friday in September. Read here about this year's traditional dinner at the Wellingten restaurant in Wellingsbüttel, a Hamburg suburb.

For two nights, I stayed at the Clounys just outside the S-Bahn (commuter train) station Wellingsbüttel, three hundred meters from the Wellingten.

St. Pauli's former anti-aircraft bunker on "Holy Spirit Field."
On the right, the Hamburg TV tower.
I had planned to meet with my Cousin the following Saturday, but she wasn't well. So I set out for a visit to a new Hamburg landmark: The Green Bunker St. Pauli on Heiligengeistfeld.

The bunker was built in 1942 in just 300 days by thousands of forced laborers. It has 3.5-meter-thick walls and a 5-meter-thick ceiling.

In the making: The Hilldegarden Association will transform
the former control station into a place of information and remembrance.
During the war, the Royal Air Force flew their air raids at night, and in 1943, up to 25,000 people sought shelter inside the bunker.

A low entrance to the control station
The top of the bunkers served as a Flakturm (anti-aircraft gun tower). On the four platforms in the corner, 12.8 cm twin Flaks were installed, while in the middle, the control Radar station attempted to locate the enemy aircraft. Note the destroyed living quarters surrounding the tower in the earlier photo.

After the war, the unsightly block stood in the middle of the Heiligengeistfeld. What to do with it? Demolition was impossible.
 
Between 2019 and 2024, following the plans of architect Mathias Müller-Using, the bunker was expanded by five pyramid-like floors, reaching a height of 58 meters. This extension added over 10,000 m² of new usable space, including a hotel, restaurants, event rooms, and an event hall.

Go, St. Pauli amateur players
Young players train enthusiastically on the practice fields of the traditional St. Pauli soccer club. In the background is the club's soccer stadium at Millerntor.

To reach the top. Red Baron took the 560-meter-long "mountain path," which winds its way up outside along the façade of the bunker in a spiral. Still, to the roof garden on the very top, I had to climb a total of 335 steps.

St. Jakobi (St. James), der Michel (St. Michaelis), and Elphi (Elbphilharmonie)
On my way up, I had impressive views of the city skyline.
  

I enjoyed the 1,400 m² roof garden. The greenery includes trees, shrubs, and hedges that can withstand extreme weather conditions.

Red Baron admired the apple tree, which was bearing fruit.
The combination of a high-rise bunker and urban greenery is considered unique worldwide.

Going downstairs is more difficult for me than going upstairs. So I took the elevator for visitors with limited mobility on my way down.

After climbing 335 steps, I deserved a treat. I took the subway Zu den Landungsbrücken and headed for my beloved restaurant of the same name. 


It was 11:55 a.m., and I found a seat at a table overlooking the Elbe River. In the background, the Elbphilharmonie greeted me. Every now and then, harbor tour boats or ferries docked and departed. I just sat at the waterfront.

I was lucky because shortly after 12, a horde of young men invaded and occupied all outdoor seats.


My loyal readers are aware of what I do when I'm in Hamburg. I had Finkenwerder Speckscholle (bacon-crusted plaice). It is served with boiled potatoes, so the Bratkartoffeln (pan-fried potatoes) were an extra €1.50.


And for dessert, what else, the original Rode Grütt (Red fruit stew) with vanilla sauce, and not with vanilla ice cream as it is frequently served these days.

On a harbor ferry boat and on a sunny Sunday afternoon,
Red Baron is with other tourists on his way from Landungsbrücken to Elphi.
Tourist, if you pass by Hamburg and they talk you into an expensive harbor tour, tell them that the Red Baron told you to explore the entire harbor area by ferry boats with a low-priced Tageskarte (daily ticket) from the HVV (Hamburg's public transport company)*.
*A malapropism based on the famous epigram by the Greek poet Simonides in memory of the Spartans who fell in battle against the Persians at Thermopylae (480 BC): Ὦ ξεῖν', ἀγγέλλειν Λακεδαιμονίοις ὅτι τῇδε κείμεθα, τοῖς κείνων ῥήμασι πειθόμενοι.
*

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