For two nights, I stayed at the
Clounys just outside the
S-Bahn (commuter train) station Wellingsbüttel, three hundred meters
from the Wellingten.
![]() |
St. Pauli's former anti-aircraft bunker on "Holy Spirit Field."
On the right, the Hamburg TV tower. |
I had planned to meet with my Cousin the following Saturday, but she wasn't
well. So I set out for a visit to a new Hamburg landmark: The Green Bunker St.
Pauli on Heiligengeistfeld.
The bunker was built in 1942 in just 300 days by thousands of forced laborers.
It has 3.5-meter-thick walls and a 5-meter-thick ceiling.
![]() |
In the making: The Hilldegarden Association will transform the former control station into a place of information and remembrance. |
![]() |
A low entrance to the control station |
After the war, the unsightly block stood in the middle of the
Heiligengeistfeld. What to do with it? Demolition was impossible.
Between 2019 and 2024, following the plans of architect Mathias Müller-Using, the bunker was expanded by five pyramid-like floors, reaching a height of 58 meters. This extension added over 10,000 m² of new usable space, including a hotel, restaurants, event rooms, and an event hall.
![]() |
Go, St. Pauli amateur players |
To reach the top. Red Baron took the 560-meter-long "mountain path," which
winds its way up outside along the façade of the bunker in a spiral.
Still, to the roof garden on the very top, I had to climb a total of 335 steps.
![]() |
St. Jakobi (St. James), der Michel (St. Michaelis), and Elphi (Elbphilharmonie) |
![]() |
I enjoyed the 1,400 m² roof garden. The greenery includes trees, shrubs,
and hedges that can withstand extreme weather conditions.
![]() |
Red Baron admired the apple tree, which was bearing fruit. |
Going downstairs is more difficult for me than going upstairs. So I took
the elevator for visitors with limited mobility on my way down.
After climbing 335 steps, I deserved a treat. I took the subway
Zu den Landungsbrücken and headed for my beloved restaurant of the
same name.
It was 11:55 a.m., and I found a seat at a table overlooking the Elbe River. In the background, the Elbphilharmonie greeted me. Every now and then, harbor tour boats or ferries docked and departed. I just sat at the waterfront.
I was lucky because shortly after 12, a horde of young men invaded and
occupied all outdoor seats.
My loyal readers are aware of what I do when I'm in Hamburg. I had Finkenwerder Speckscholle (bacon-crusted plaice). It is served with boiled potatoes, so the Bratkartoffeln (pan-fried potatoes) were an extra €1.50.
And for dessert, what else, the original Rode Grütt (Red fruit stew) with vanilla sauce, and not with vanilla ice cream as it is frequently served these days.
![]() |
On a harbor ferry boat and on a sunny Sunday afternoon, Red Baron is with other tourists on his way from Landungsbrücken to Elphi. |
*A malapropism based on the famous epigram by the Greek poet Simonides in memory of the Spartans who fell in battle against the Persians at Thermopylae (480 BC): Ὦ ξεῖν', ἀγγέλλειν Λακεδαιμονίοις ὅτι τῇδε κείμεθα, τοῖς κείνων ῥήμασι πειθόμενοι.
*
No comments:
Post a Comment