Notre Dame

Red Baron visited Paris' Notre Dame Cathedral in 1955 for the first time and was not much impressed. The nave was dark, the walls and ceilings blackened by centuries of candle soot. The indeed impressive stained glass windows provided only dim lighting inside the church.

Then disaster struck. On April 15, 2019, a major fire broke out in the oak roof truss, spreading across the entire roof within an hour.

At 7:56 p.m., the tallest part of the church, the wooden crossing tower, collapsed, smashing part of the burning roof truss above the central nave.

Many of you remember the dramatic live pictures on television.

After five years of construction, the cathedral now shines again in new splendor and is a magnet for visitors, with sometimes long waiting times to get in.

That's why we decided to attend early Mass at 8:30 a.m. on Friday, the day after we arrived in Paris. Only true worshippers are allowed to attend services, and sightseeing visits are then not possible.

We churchgoers, after entering the cathedral through the main door, were welcomed by the celebrant but not allowed to proceed into the nave. He introduced us to the upcoming Mass. The sight of the restored interior takes visitors' breath away.

The uniquely shaped altar for versus populum Masses stands at the entrance to the choir.

The celebrant gave the sermon with the statue of the church's patron saint, Mary, in the background.

After Mass, we admired the rosette windows.

 

Then we looked at the Biblia pauperum, the Bible of the Poor, in the choir loft. On the right side, the history of salvation begins with Mary's visit to her cousin Elizabeth and extends only as far as Gethsemane.

On the left side, only appearances of the risen Christ are depicted. The Passion, including the Resurrection, is omitted.

Left side:

Luke 1:39–42

And Mary arose in those days, and went into the hill country with haste, into a city of Judah;

And entered into the house of Zacharias, and saluted Elisabeth.

And it came to pass, that, when Elisabeth heard the salutation of Mary, the babe leaped in her womb; and Elisabeth was filled with the Holy Ghost.

Luke 2:6–7

And so it was that, while they were there, the days were accomplished that she should be delivered.

And she brought forth her firstborn Son, and wrapped him in swaddling clothes, and laid him in a manger; because there was no room for them in the inn.

Luke 2:8–11

And there were shepherds living out in the fields nearby, keeping watch over their flocks at night.

An angel of the Lord appeared to them, and the glory of the Lord shone around them, and they were terrified.

 
But the angel said to them, "Do not be afraid. I bring you good news that will cause great joy for all the people.

 
Today in the town of David, a Savior has been born to you; he is the Messiah, the Lord.

Note that the "king" presenting his gift to Jesus has laid down his crown.

Matthew 2:1 and 12

Now when Jesus was born in Bethlehem of Judaea in the days of Herod the king, behold, there came wise men from the east to Jerusalem,

And when they came into the house, they saw the young child with Mary his mother, and fell down, and worshipped him: and when they had opened their treasures, they presented unto him gifts; gold, and frankincense, and myrrh.

Matthew 2:16

Then Herod, when he saw that he was mocked by the wise men, was exceeding wroth, and sent forth, and slew all the children that were in Bethlehem, and in all the coasts thereof, from two years old and under, according to the time which he had diligently enquired of the wise men.

The donkey carrying the Lord proudly looks at the spectators.

Matthew 2:13-14

And when they were departed, behold, the angel of the Lord appeareth to Joseph in a dream, saying, Arise, and take the young child and his mother, and flee into Egypt, and be thou there until I bring thee word: for Herod will seek the young child to destroy him.

When he arose, he took the young child and his mother by night, and departed into Egypt.

Luke 2:22–32

And when the days of her purification according to the law of Moses were accomplished, they brought him to Jerusalem, to present him to the Lord;

(As it is written in the law of the Lord, Every male that openeth the womb shall be called holy to the Lord;)

And to offer a sacrifice according to that which is said in the law of the Lord, A pair of turtledoves, or two young pigeons.

And, behold, there was a man in Jerusalem, whose name was Simeon; and the same man was just and devout, waiting for the consolation of Israel: and the Holy Ghost was upon him.

And it was revealed unto him by the Holy Ghost, that he should not see death before he had seen the Lord's Christ.

And he came by the Spirit into the temple: and when the parents brought in the child Jesus, to do for him after the custom of the law,

Then he took him up in his arms, and blessed God, and said,

Lord, now lettest thou thy servant depart in peace, according to thy word:

For mine eyes have seen thy salvation,

Which thou hast prepared before the face of all people;

A light to lighten the Gentiles, and the glory of thy people Israel.

Luke 2:41–50

Now his parents went to Jerusalem every year at the Feast of the passover.

And when he was twelve years old, they went up to Jerusalem after the custom of the feast.

And when they had fulfilled the days, as they returned, the child Jesus tarried behind in Jerusalem; and Joseph and his mother knew not of it.

But they, supposing him to have been in the company, went a day's journey; and they sought him among their kinsfolk and acquaintances.

And when they found him not, they turned back again to Jerusalem, seeking him.

And it came to pass, that after three days they found him in the temple, sitting in the midst of the doctors, both hearing them, and asking them questions.

And all that heard him were astonished at his understanding and answers.

And when they saw him, they were amazed: and his mother said unto him, Son, why hast thou thus dealt with us? Behold, thy father and I have sought thee sorrowing.

And he said unto them, How is it that ye sought me? Wist ye not that I must be about my Father's business?

And they understood not the saying which he spake unto them.

Matthew 3:13-17

Then cometh Jesus from Galilee to Jordan unto John, to be baptized of him. 

But John forbade him, saying, I have need to be baptized of thee, and comest thou to me? 

And Jesus, answering, said unto him, Suffer it to be so now: for thus it becometh us to fulfil all righteousness. Then he suffered him. 

And Jesus, when he was baptized, went up straightway out of the water: and, lo, the heavens were opened unto him, and he saw the Spirit of God descending like a dove, and lighting upon him: and lo, a voice from heaven, saying, 

This is my beloved Son, in whom I am well pleased.

John 2:1–11

And the third day there was a marriage in Cana of Galilee; and the mother of Jesus was there:

And both Jesus and his disciples were called to the marriage.

And when they wanted wine, the mother of Jesus said unto him, They have no wine.

Jesus saith unto her, Woman, what have I to do with thee? My hour is not yet come.

His mother saith unto the servants, Whatsoever he saith unto you, do it.

And there were set there six waterpots of stone, after the manner of the purifying of the Jews, containing two or three firkins apiece.

Jesus saith unto them, Fill the waterpots with water. And they filled them up to the brim.

And he saith unto them, Draw out now, and bear unto the governor of the feast. And they bear it.

When the ruler of the feast had tasted the water that was made wine, and knew not whence it was: (but the servants which drew the water knew;) the governor of the feast called the bridegroom,

And saith unto him, Every man at the beginning doth set forth good wine; and when men have well drunk, then that which is worse: but thou hast kept the good wine until now.

This beginning of miracles did Jesus in Cana of Galilee, and manifested forth his glory; and his disciples believed on him.

Matthew 21:7–11

And brought the ass, and the colt, and put on them their clothes, and they set him thereon.

And a very great multitude spread their garments in the way; others cut down branches from the trees, and strewn them in the way.

And the multitudes that went before, and that followed, cried, saying, Hosanna to the Son of David: Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord; Hosanna in the highest.

And when he came into Jerusalem, all the city was moved, saying, Who is this?

And the multitude said, This is Jesus the prophet of Nazareth of Galilee.

Matthew 26:26-29

And as they were eating, Jesus took bread, and blessed it, and brake it, and gave it to the disciples, and said, Take, eat; this is my body.

And he took the cup, and gave thanks, and gave it to them, saying, Drink ye all of it;

For this is my blood of the new testament, which is shed for many for the remission of sins.

But I say unto you, I will not drink henceforth of this fruit of the vine, until that day when I drink it new with you in my Father's kingdom.

John 13:4–12

He riseth from supper, and laid aside his garments; and took a towel, and girded himself.

After that, he poureth water into a basin, and began to wash the disciples' feet, and to wipe them with the towel wherewith he was girded.

Then cometh he to Simon Peter: and Peter saith unto him, Lord, dost thou wash my feet?

Jesus answered and said unto him, What I do thou knowest not now; but thou shalt know hereafter.

Peter saith unto him, Thou shalt never wash my feet. Jesus answered him, If I wash thee not, thou hast no part with me.

Matthew 26:36–45

Then cometh Jesus with them unto a place called Gethsemane, and saith unto the disciples, Sit ye here, while I go and pray yonder.

And he took with him Peter and the two sons of Zebedee, and began to be sorrowful and very heavy.

Then saith he unto them, My soul is exceeding sorrowful, even unto death: tarry ye here, and watch with me.

And he went a little farther, and fell on his face, and prayed, saying, O my Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me: nevertheless not as I will, but as thou wilt.

And he cometh unto the disciples, and findeth them asleep, and saith unto Peter, What, could ye not watch with me one hour?

Watch and pray, that ye enter not into temptation: the spirit indeed is willing, but the flesh is weak.

He went away again the second time, and prayed, saying, O my Father, if this cup may not pass away from me, except I drink it, thy will be done.

And he came and found them asleep again: for their eyes were heavy.

And he left them, and went away again, and prayed the third time, saying the same words.

Then cometh he to the disciples, and saith unto them, Sleep on now, and take your rest: behold, the hour is at hand, and the Son of man is betrayed into the hands of sinners.

Rise, let us be going: behold, he is at hand that doth betray me.

Right side:

John 20:14–16

And when she had thus said, she turned herself back, and saw Jesus standing, and knew not that it was Jesus.

Jesus saith unto her, Woman, why weepest thou? Whom seekest thou? She, supposing him to be the gardener, saith unto him, Sir, if thou hast borne him hence, tell me where thou hast laid him, and I will take him away.

Jesus saith unto her, Mary. She turned herself, and saith unto him, Rabboni; which is to say, Master.

Mark 16:1–8 and Matthew 28:9-10

And when the sabbath was past, Mary Magdalene, and Mary the mother of James, and Salome, had bought sweet spices, that they might come and anoint him.

Suddenly,  Jesus met them. "Greetings," he said. They came to him, clasped his feet, and worshiped him. Then Jesus said to them, "Do not be afraid. Go and tell my brothers to go to Galilee; there they will see me."

Luke 24:34

Saying, The Lord is risen indeed, and hath appeared to Simon.

Luke 24:13–35

And, behold, two of them went that same day to a village called Emmaus, which was from Jerusalem about threescore furlongs.

And they talked together of all these things which had happened.

And it came to pass that, while they communed together and reasoned, Jesus himself drew near and went with them.

But their eyes were held so that they should not know him.

And he said unto them, What manner of communications are these that ye have one to another, as ye walk, and are sad?

And one of them, whose name was Cleopas, answering said unto him, Art thou only a stranger in Jerusalem, and hast not known the things which are come to pass there in these days?

And he said unto them, What things? And they said unto him, Concerning Jesus of Nazareth, which was a prophet mighty in deed and word before God and all the people:

And how the chief priests and our rulers delivered him to be condemned to death, and have crucified him.

But we trusted that it was he who should have redeemed Israel, and besides all this, today is the third day since these things were done.

Yeah, and certain women of our company astonished us, who were early at the sepulchre;

And when they found not his body, they came, saying that they had also seen a vision of angels, which said that he was alive.

And certain of them who were with us went to the sepulchre, and found it even so as the women had said: but him they saw not.

Then he said unto them, O fools, and slow of heart to believe all that the prophets have spoken:

Ought not Christ to have suffered these things, and to enter into his glory?

And beginning at Moses and all the prophets, he expounded unto them in all the scriptures the things concerning himself.

And they drew nigh unto the village, whither they went: and he made as though he would have gone further.

But they constrained him, saying, Abide with us: for it is toward evening, and the day is far spent. And he went in to tarry with them.

And it came to pass, as he sat at meat with them, he took bread, and blessed it, and brake, and gave to them.

And their eyes were opened, and they knew him; and he vanished out of their sight.

And they said one to another, Did not our heart burn within us, while he talked with us by the way, and while he opened to us the scriptures?

And they rose up the same hour, and returned to Jerusalem, and found the eleven gathered together, and them that were with them,

Saying, The Lord is risen indeed, and hath appeared to Simon.

And they told what things were done in the way, and how he was known of them in breaking of bread.

Luke 24:36–49

And as they thus spake, Jesus himself stood in the midst of them, and said unto them, Peace be unto you.

But they were terrified and affrighted, and supposed that they had seen a spirit.

And he said unto them, Why are ye troubled? And why do thoughts arise in your hearts?

Behold my hands and my feet, that it is I myself: handle me, and see; for a spirit hath not flesh and bones, as ye see me have.

And when he had thus spoken, he shewed them his hands and his feet.

And while they yet believed not for joy, and wondered, he said unto them, Have ye here any meat?

And they gave him a piece of a broiled fish, and of a honeycomb.

And he took it and ate before them.

And he said unto them, These are the words which I spake unto you, while I was yet with you, that all things must be fulfilled, which were written in the law of Moses, and in the prophets, and in the psalms, concerning me.

Then opened he their understanding, that they might understand the scriptures,

And said unto them, Thus it is written, and thus it behoved Christ to suffer, and to rise from the dead the third day:

And that repentance and remission of sins should be preached in his name among all nations, beginning at Jerusalem.

And ye are witnesses of these things.

And, behold, I send the promise of my Father upon you: but tarry ye in the city of Jerusalem, until ye be endued with power from on high.

John 20:24–29

But Thomas, one of the twelve, called Didymus, was not with them when Jesus came.

The other disciples, therefore, said unto him, We have seen the Lord. But he said unto them, Except I shall see in his hands the print of the nails, and put my finger into the print of the nails, and thrust my hand into his side, I will not believe.

And after eight days again his disciples were within, and Thomas with them: then came Jesus, the doors being shut, and stood in the midst, and said, Peace be unto you.

Then saith he to Thomas, Reach hither thy finger, and behold my hands; and reach hither thy hand, and thrust it into my side: and be not faithless, but believing.

And Thomas answered and said unto him, My Lord and my God.

Jesus saith unto him, Thomas, because thou hast seen me, thou hast believed: blessed are they that have not seen, and yet have believed.

John 21:1–14

After these things, Jesus showed himself again to the disciples at the Sea of Tiberias; and on this wise shewed he himself.

There were together Simon Peter, and Thomas called Didymus, and Nathanael of Cana in Galilee, and the sons of Zebedee, and two other disciples of his.

Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing. They say unto him, We also go with thee. They went forth and entered into a ship immediately, and that night they caught nothing.

But when the morning was now come, Jesus stood on the shore: but the disciples knew not that it was Jesus.

Then Jesus saith unto them, Children, have ye any meat? They answered him, No.

And he said unto them, Cast the net on the right side of the ship, and ye shall find. They cast, but were unable to draw it in due to the multitude of fish.

Therefore, that disciple whom Jesus loved saith unto Peter, It is the Lord. Now when Simon Peter heard that it was the Lord, he girt his fisher's coat unto him, (for he was naked,) and did cast himself into the sea.

And the other disciples came in a little ship; (for they were not far from land, but as it were two hundred cubits,) dragging the net with fish.

As soon as they came to land, they saw a fire of coals there, and fish laid thereon, and bread.

Jesus saith unto them, Bring of the fish which ye have now caught.

Simon Peter went up, and drew the net to land full of great fishes, an hundred and fifty and three: and for all there were so many, yet was not the net broken.

Jesus saith unto them, Come and dine. And none of the disciples durst ask him, Who art thou? Knowing that it was the Lord.

Jesus then cometh, and taketh bread, and giveth them, and fish likewise.

Matthew 28:16-20

Then the eleven disciples went away into Galilee, into a mountain where Jesus had appointed them.

And when they saw him, they worshipped him: but some doubted.

And Jesus came and spake unto them, saying, All power is given unto me in heaven and in earth.

Go ye therefore, and teach all nations, baptizing them in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost:

Teaching them to observe all things whatsoever I have commanded you: and, lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end of the world. Amen.

Acts 1:9–12

And when he had spoken these things, while they beheld, he was taken up; and a cloud received him out of their sight.

And while they looked steadfastly toward heaven as he went up, behold, two men stood by them in white apparel;

Which also said, Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing up into heaven? This same Jesus, who is taken up from you into heaven, shall so come in like manner as ye have seen him go into heaven.

Then they returned to Jerusalem from the mount called Olivet, which is from Jerusalem a sabbath day's journey.

On our way out, we were once again impressed by the brightness of the church interior.

While searching for breakfast, we found what we were looking for just around the corner. At Café Paris, they served a café with an authentic Parisian croissant. Delicious!

Later, we met up with the rest of our group under Charlemagne's horse's tail for a walk through Paris.

Stay tuned.

**

Remember, LORD, What Has Happened to Us

On the occasion of Jewish Culture Day last Sunday, Red Baron took part in a guided tour of Freiburg's Jewish cemetery.

Our guide was Ruben Frankenstein, author of the book: Denkmal und Name – Der gute Ort Freiburg. Dokumentation des jüdischen Friedhofs (Monument and name – Freiburg, a good place. Documentation of the Jewish cemetery).

Let's go back in history: Following a pogrom in Freiburg in January 1349, when all the Jews in town were murdered, they were hesitant, and only a few came back.

Eventually, the stay of those who settled in Freiburg was only short-lived. As a result of reports of ritual murders of Christians in distant Bavaria, the City Council, after consulting with Duke Leopold, announced the expulsion of all Jews from the pulpits on July 4, 1401.
On February 22, 1424, at the request of the City Council, King Sigismund officially confirmed the decree of 1401, of the Eternal Expulsion of all Jews from Freiburg.

It was not until 450 years later, in 1862, that Jews were allowed to take up permanent residence in Freiburg.

 
In 1863, a Jewish community was established in Freiburg. Seven years later, it laid out its own cemetery on the corner of Elsässer Straße and Rosbaumweg, covering an area of 83 acres. Today, there are approximately 900 mazevot (gravestones).

Our group entered the Jewish cemetery through the gate. Surprisingly, it was not desecrated during the Nazi era. Unlike in many Jewish cemeteries in Alsace in the recent past, grave desecrations did not occur in Freiburg.

Near the entrance, a cluster of gravestones bearing the name Kahn caught Red Baron's eye.

Ruben Frankenstein explained that in many Jewish cemeteries, there is a specific order in which members of various groups are buried. As the descendants of Moses' brother Aaron’s tribe Levi are the priestly class, these Kohanim should not, in a ritual sense, defile themselves with the dead.

Cemeteries are "places of impurety," so Kohanim are not allowed to enter a them. Therefore, burial places for the Kahns are provided directly near the entrance so that their relatives do not have to go far inside when visiting their graves.

Ruben made all the gravestones we visited speak.

Here lies Hofrat Dr. Gustav Weil, professor of Oriental languages at Heidelberg University.

Weil's surviving relatives were proud of his professorship because in the 19th century, it was difficult for a Jew to rise in the university hierarchy.

     

Here lies Eduard Salomon, candidate of medicine, deeply mourned by his loved ones. 

Eduard died in a duel* at the age of 26, three days before receiving his medical license. The cause was an anti-Semitic insult and a resulting altercation with a fraternity student in a restaurant. Read the full and lengthy story here in German.

*Read about Ferdinand Lassalle, who was another Jew killed in a duel 

The inscription on the pedestal, expressing trust in God, reads:

 
In vain have I sought power
In vain have I exhausted my strength.
But my right is with the Eternal One
My reward is with my God.

           

Therese Loewy committed suicide on October 22, 1940, on the very day when the Jews in Freiburg were rounded up to be transported to the concentration camp Gurs in Vichy, France. She decided to go with dignity on her own terms and not be murdered by Nazi henchmen.

On the Western Front in 1916, Jewish soldiers are celebrating Hanukkah, the commemoration
of the rededication of the Holy Temple, in the snow, showing the nine-armed Menorah.

During World War I, Jewish soldiers fought side by side with their Christian comrades for the emperor and their fatherland.

The Jewish cemetery embraces a war memorial for the many members of Freiburg's Jewish community who fell in World War I.

To our sons who fell in World War I, with gratitude and reverence. The Israel Congregation.

In addition to those who rest here, the following died for their fatherland. 

It follows a list of 24 names.

The Jewish cemetery in Freiburg is a tranquil place and makes you think.

Only once did I have to smile. In colloquial German, Billigheimer stands for a low-cost vendor, someone who is particularly inexpensive or cheap. 

In 1986, a memorial stone was erected with a commonplace inscription in Hebrew and German: "To the Jewish victims of tyranny 1933–1945."

In a cemetery, they should have taken the inscription from Lamentations 5:1.

Remember, LORD, what has happened to us.

*

Where is Matt Dillon?

As a student, Red Baron listened on AFN Munich to Gunsmoke and heard U.S. Marshal Matt Dillon say, "I am the first man they look for, and the last they want to meet."

For me, Matt, who practiced the rule of law in Dodge City,  embodied the USA. The US kept global order, called out wannabe spoilers, and locked troublemakers up.

Lately, some gossipers claimed that Matt was dead. Well, he is still around and keeps law and order in his Long Branch Saloon; however, he no longer cares what's happening within Dodge City.

When the inkeeper of the House of Israel, Netanyahu, made a raid on the neighboring Qatar Saloon, killing some of his enemies, Matt did not brand that illegal action. He said that he was unhappy about the attack and was quick to emphasize that he had nothing to do with it.

Instead, Matt called in many sheriffs to watch the entrance of his saloon, sit at specific tables, and keep the place clean from people south of the border. 

Those who were apprehended without valid residence papers were thrown out, even though they hadn't caused any trouble, and although they were needed in the kitchen and as craftsmen in Matt's Long Branch Saloon.

In the eastern part of Dodge City, there lived a Russian, Potentate, who owned a vast saloon. Being greedy, he sent his gunmen to the nearby Ukraine Inn, trying to incorporate the place into his empire. 

Matt admired the strong man; he invited him to the western branch of his Long Branch Saloon, rolling out a red carpet, hoping that Potentate would make peace with the Ukrainian innkeeper.

But Potentate's bullets kept on flying, and one day they penetrated into the Poland Saloon on the other side of the street. Matt had an alliance with the owner, and so he felt embarrassed by the situation, issuing a statement:

Here we go? Matt went nowhere. Later, he claimed that Potentate possibly had men with poor aim whose bullets had gone astray. It is a Mad City instead of Dodge City.

*

I Love Paris

Lutetia at the time of Julius Caesar.
Asterix Volume 6: Les Lauriers de César (©Udezero)

... but, non modo amo Lutetiam, urbem ad Sequanam, sed totam quoque Galliam. 

During his professional life, Red Baron was often in Paris. While my conversation partners worked at the CEA at Saclay, I stayed overnight in Paris and took the suburban train to the center of the Commissariat à l'énergie atomique et aux énergies alternatives the following morning.

I loved and still love the small hotels in the Latin Quarter. In the evening, I went to the theater. I saw Bertolt Brecht in French (!): The Life of Galileo at the Comédie Française and Mr. Puntila and His Man Matti at the Théâtre Marigny. Hilarious.

For breakfast, I had one or two pots of coffee, a crispy baguette, fresh from the bakery, with butter from a bowl and strawberry jam from a large jar. Delicious.

When the hotel didn't offer breakfast, I went to the nearest bistrot du coin de rue and enjoyed la formule café-croissant.

The lobby of the Saint Paul Hotel (©Google Maps)

On my recent organized visit to Paris with a small group of twelve people, I again stayed on the Left Bank in the Latin Quarter, this time at the Hotel Saint Paul on ...

This name rang a bell. The Duc d'Enghien from the House of Condé was a key figure in the Battle of Freiburg on August 3 to 5, 1644. The House of Condé is a cadet branch of the French royal house of Bourbon.

The Great Condé - as he was later called - commanded the Armée de France and joined Marschall Turenne with his Armée de L'Allemagne to recapture the city held by Bavarian troops under Franz von Mercy. Read more about one of the bloodiest battles of the Thirty Years' Way here in German.

In the following, I'll report in several blogs about this fantastic and probably my last stay, where the price-performance ratio of our tour company was outstanding. Red Baron was exceptionally high and delighted to show his beloved Paris to someone close to him who had never been to the City of Light before.

After checking in, our group set off on its first walking tour to explore the Latin Quarter.

At the end of our street, a bust of Charles Aznavour greeted us. Here is one of his greatest hits. I dedicate it to the one accompanying me. 

Next stop: Saint-Germain-des-Prés, where you'll find the famous café frequented by well-known literary figures, Les Deux Magots. 

The name comes from a 19th-century play titled Les Deux Magots de la Chine. In fact, inside the café, you'll find two statues of Chinese mandarins perched on a central pillar, gazing out over the room. They are the Deux Magots and have become iconic symbols of the café. 

Red Baron had always confused that word with mégot (cigarette butt), which isn't so far-fetched, because the place was named after an icon of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Juliette Gréco. She knew Jean-Paul Sartre, Albert Camus, Jacques Prévert, and many other philosophical and literary figures and was called la Muse de l'existentialisme.

L'Eglise de Saint-Germain-des-Prés is one of the oldest churches. It was part of an abbey and was consecrated in 558. The name refers to Saint Germanus, who was bishop of Paris from 550 to 576.

The nave is presented in a transitional Romanesque-Gothic style.

On our way to the Quai Voltaire, we passed the former Hôtel d'Alsace in Rue des Beaux-Arts 13, where Oscar Wilde once dwelt and died.

On the other side of the River Seine, the Louvre Palace awaits our visit.

The journey and the many new impressions of the afternoon had made us hungry.

 Cosy Au Père Louis (©Google Maps)

Our group ended the first day in Paris in style with a three-course dinner at the restaurant Au Père Louis.

*